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MOTORCYCLE TRAINING CBT & DAS
If you are under 21 or don't mind being restricted to a 33 BHP bike for 2 years, you can train and take your test on a 125 cc bike. Standard 125cc Motorcycle training takes place in class sizes of no more than 3 students and will cover everything you will need to pass the Standard (Category A- Restricted) licence. We know the local test areas like the back of our hand and can show you most of the roads you will be required to ride on. Before starting your course you should study for and pass the DSA's Motorcycle Theory Test. You also need to have completed CBT too. We recommend that you take your test on a 125cc geared motorcycle, rather than an automatic scooter. This is purely (as with a car licence) due to the fact that your licence will only be valid on automatic bikes if you sit your test on one. This will severely limit your choice of bike. However, if you really want to train and take your test on an automatic, then we can organise this, provided you give us advanced warning.
All our prices include use of a school motorcycle. However, if you intend to take your test on your own bike, then please call for a discounted price. Please note, however that some race replica style 125cc bike's do not always comply with the learner legal power restriction and often have a wide turning circle, which can make it tricky to do a U turn on. You should check that your bike is suitable for the test before you opt to use it.
MOTORCYCLE TRAINING TIPS - CBT - DAS - INTENSIVE
MOTORCYCLE U - TURNS
Slow speed control is key to a good 'U' turn. You will need to keep the engine pulling throughout the turn and control the speed using the back brake. It's amazing how slow you can go and keep you're balance. Here are the basic steps.
- Positioning - You need to make as much use of the road as possible, so try to get as close to the curb as you can, but leave enough space for your foot (12" seems about right).
- Observation - It has to be clear and safe, before you begin. Have a good look in front and a good look behind to check there are no on coming vehicles. Also keep an eye on any pedestrian in case they cross.
- Moving off - Give the bike a bit more revs than normal, to ensure it gives you constant power, and bring to the biting point. Move off slowly riding/slipping the clutch and dragging the back brake (Do Not touch the front brake). Make sure you have got your balance before beginning the turn. Perform a lifesaver to check the road as you begin the turn. Ease the handle bars round slowly and evenly (not straight to full lock), while controlling the speed with your back brake. Lean slightly away from the turn to compensate for the bike wanting to fall in. As you go round you should keep your head in the direction you want to go (don't look at the ground or Kurb) as it helps your balance.
- Finish - Stop when you reach the other side in the same position as you started. Don't forget to check in front and behind, before you pull away again.
HINT:
If you start to fall in let the clutch/rear brake out a bit to increase your speed. If you can't turn tight enough, use your back brake to slow the bike down. Remember if you're going up or down hill, you will need to compensate (more power up, more brake down). This is also the case If the road has a camber.
EMERGENCY STOP - MOTORCYCLE TRAINING
The Emergency stop tests your reactions and ability to stop the bike at speed as quickly and safely as possible. It is generally taught as a 5 point system .
- Shut off the accelerator.
- Apply the front brake.
- Apply the rear brake.
- Increase the pressure on the front brake.
- Apply the clutch to avoid stalling (on a manual).
It sounds like a lot to remember, but is actually easy once you've done it a few times. There are also a couple of things that you should not do during the emergency stop. It's a braking exercise, try to keep the bike in straight line, no mirrors, no gear changes, don't skid. Aim to stop with you left foot coming down and covering the rear brake stilL
HINT: If it's dry, you should apply most of the braking pressure to the front brake (approx. 80%) and aim to stop as quickly as possible. However, if it's wet you must apply the brake pressure more evenly (50% front, 50% rear) and be prepared to take at least twice as long to stop. It's very easy to loose the front wheel in wet conditions.
LEFT AND RIGHT TURNS - MOTORCYCLE TRAINING
You may have come across the acronym OSMPSL or Observation, Signal, Manoeuvre, Position, Speed and Look, which describes the approach to turning left or right. It's explained in a bit more detail below:
- Observation - Check your mirrors before you do anything. Making a turn will change your road position, speed and ultimately your direction, so it must be safe to perform the exercise.
- Signal - Indicate to other road users that you intend to turn.
- Manoeuvre & Position - Move and position your bike towards the turn, if turning left move to the left quarter of the lane, if turning right, the right.
- Speed - Start slowing down (Remember user your front brake followed by back) and changing down ready to take the corner. It is important to get the approach right, so you have plenty of time to look around and react to any oncoming danger.
- Look - Before it's too late to abort the turn perform a lifesaver to make sure nobody is squeezing up your outside (right turn) inside (left turn). Just before you get to the end of curb (approx. 10') is about the right time to check.
You should also perform rear observations once completing the turn and don't forget to cancel your signal!
HINT: Turnings can often have less space than you first anticipated, which may mean you have to go round slower than expected. Make sure you get into the right gear early, so that the bike will still pull you round if you need to slow down. This is particularly important on a heavy bike or when carrying a passenger.
WHEN WALKING WITH YOUR MOTORCYCLE
Most people don't have too much trouble pushing a light-weight motorcycle, moped or scooter, as the bike is relatively light. However, as you move up to a larger, heavier bike you may find it difficult to keep control when walking. You will be asked to walk your bike (normally across the road) on your test. So here are a few tips that may help:
- It's easier to pull the bike than to push it, so if you position your body close to the handle bars and next to the tank, you'll find that you have greater manoeuvrability as the bulk of the bike will be slightly behind you.
- Hold the bars with both hands (as if in a riding position) if you're gentle you will be able to use the front brake to slow or stop the bike (be careful not to snatch the front wheel).
- Lean the bike towards you, don't try to hold it upright. If it's upright it can fall either way (and you'll never stop it, if it falls away from you).
- Keep your head up and look where you are going and don't forget to keep a good look out for other road users.
HINT : With a heavier bike, get into the habit of putting the side stand down before you get off the bike. It's very easy to drop it if you don't. When you've completed the manoeuvre put the side stand down before you climb on.
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